3 thoughts on “What is the costume of ancient women.”
Lucia
The history of Chinese clothing has a long history. From primitive society, Shang and Zhou, Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods, Qin and Han dynasties, Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern Dynasties, Sui and Tang dynasties, Song, Liao, Xia, Yuan Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, to modern times, they are noticeable for the world with distinctive characteristics. The primitive society costume (before the 21st century BC) "Lu's Spring and Autumn", "Shimen" and the later "Huainanzi" written by people during the Warring States Period mentioned that Huangdi, Hu Cao or Bo Yu created clothes. Investigating from unearthed cultural relics, the source of the history of clothing can be traced back to the late period of the old stone in the original society. At the site of the top cave of Beijing's Zhoukou (about 19,000 years ago), one bone needle and 141 drilling stones, bones, shellfish, and dental decoration were found. It was confirmed that the natural materials such as beast skin were used to sew simple clothes. The history of Chinese clothing culture has begun. About 10,000 years ago, I have entered the Neolithic era. Textile technology inventions, clothing materials have since been artificially weaving cloth, clothing forms have changed, and their functions have been improved. Cloak -style clothing such as Guanyou and single clothes has become a typical dress, and the accessories are becoming increasingly complicated, and it has a significant impact on the formation of the clothing system. After the emergence of textiles, Guan's clothing has been developed into a styling service. It is commonly used in a considerable long period of time, a very vast area and a large number of ethnic groups. type. In addition to the general costumes in the Neolithic era, it also found that there are crowns, boots, headwear, and adoption from some pottery relics. Shang and Zhou Dai (about 16th century to 771 BC) from the Shang Dynasty to the Western Zhou Dynasty. It is a period of distinguishing the grade top clothes and the crown service system and the gradual establishment of the service rules system. The clothes materials of the Shang Dynasty are skin, leather, silk, and hemp. Due to the progress of textile technology, silk linen has an important position. The businessmen have been able to weave the extremely thin silk, the brocade of the flowers, the brocade of the flower, and the tunnels. The clothes are thick and heavy.
The Western Zhou Dynasty, the hierarchical system was gradually established. According to the literature records and unearthed cultural relics analysis, the Chinese crown service system was initially established during the summer and commercial period, and it has been completely improved by the Zhou Dynasty. The royal family is honored and majestic. On different etiquette occasions, the top crowns must be crowned in an orderly manner, and they must also adopt different forms, colors and patterns. The most famous is the twelve chapters contained in "Shangshu? Yi Yi": "Sun, Moon, Star, Mountain, Dragon, Chinese Cordystone, Zongyi, Algae, Fire, Pink Rice, Cycling, and Embroidery, with colorful color, colorful color Zhang Shi is in five colors. "The twelve chapters have become a system of clothing under the top of the emperors of all ages. From the perspective of humanoid cultural relics unearthed in the Zhou Dynasty, although the decoration of clothing is different, the clothes and clothes have been clear, laying the basic form of Chinese clothing.
The Spring and Autumn and Warring States Period Apparel (770 ~ 221 BC) The great progress of the weaving and embroidery technology during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period has made the clothing materials more refined and the variety of names have been seen. Huajin in Xiangyi, Henan, Bing, Qi, Qi, and Wenxiu in Qilu, Shandong, popular throughout the country. The spread of crafts stood out with diverse and exquisite clothes. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, not only did the prince himself wear a Chinese suit, but also the courtiers who were also decorated with pearls, waist Jin Peiyu, and the crown of Qiu Qiu, all seemed to be valuable. The ancients Pei Yu, respectful and inferiority, and gave a symbol of personality. As far as the influence, the upper -level people must wear a few or beautiful carved jade in the group regardless of men and women. The sword was a new weapon at the time. The nobles used self -defense to show bravery and martial arts, and they must wear a sword inlaid with gold. Various hooks are popular in the waist leather belt, and they are fighting for each other. The hat of men and women is even more eye -catching. It uses thin gauze as thin as cicada wings and valuable gold bead jade; some shapes are like covering the cup. Shoes are made of small deer skin, or made of silk and fine grass; in winter, the leather clothes are very heavy in white fox fur, which is worth a thousand dollars. Women love to make a fur in the cuffs, and there is a semi -finger -style thin -quality splendid glove. In the clothes of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the wide and small society of the upper people and the narrowness of the lower society were very different. Deep clothing has the meaning of hiding the body. It is a casual dress of the scholars at home, and a dress of the people and the people. The deep jacket combined the two independent tops and lower clothes, but kept one divided into two boundaries. The most intelligent design is that a rectangular fabric is embedded at the junction of the lower waist seams and the sleeve joints. Function. According to records, there are 4 different names in deep clothes: deep clothes, long clothes, Ma Yi, and midfine. From the perspective of unearthed wide things, clothes in the Spring and Autumn Period are more clothing and widely used, and some can be regarded as a variant of deep clothes. In 307 BC, King Zhao Wuling issued an order to serve and promoted the hut ride. Hu Fu refers to the costumes of the "Hu people" at that time, which is largely different from the clothing in the Central Plains. It is characterized by the long knees, the waist, the Guo Luo belt, the hook and the boots to facilitate riding and shooting activities. The style of clothes during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period is unprecedentedly rich and diverse, which is not only manifested in deep clothes and Hu clothes. The musician has a hood, the dancers have long and several feet sleeves. Some people often wear horn or tail crown, wearing small sleeves long skirts and oblique arm folds. These are related to the multi -collection social life.
Qin and Han clothing (AD 221 ~ 220 AD). During this period, the clothes were richer than the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, and the deep clothing also developed new development. Especially in the Han Dynasty, with the establishment of the service system, the difference between the level of clothing is also stricter. Qin and Han clothing fabrics are still heavy. Most of the embroidery patterns are mountains or vines or vines, the brocade has various complex geometric diamond patterns, and the width of the text. In the three years of the Jianyuan of the Western Han Dynasty (138 BC) and the four years of Yuan Hui (119 BC), Zhang Jian worshiped the Western Regions twice and opened up land channels between China and Western countries. Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang dynasties have not been interrupted so far, and they are called "Silk Road" in history. As a result, Chinese clothing culture passed to the world. Since Qin and Han, deep clothes have developed and changed. From the perspective of the upper levels of the Eastern Han Dynasty, the tailored robes are transferred to the institutionalization. There is no difference between the Qin Dynasty's clothing system and the Warring States Period. The Western Han Dynasty men's and women's clothing still follow the form of deep clothes. Regardless of the single and cotton, most of them are integrated with jackets and lower clothes, and they are still unpopular or scattered; the coats are in the coats and underwear. With tight pants, keep the "dress big skirt" style. Foot a mansion. Bid belt. The Qin Dynasty served, and the color was still dark. There is a public service system in the Han Dynasty. The history books include more than 20 kinds of dresses, courts, and regular clothes of emperors and ministers. The difference in grade in clothing has been very obvious. The main manifestations are: ① on the basis of the old system, the crown service has developed into a basic logo of distinguishing levels; ② The Pei system is established as a sign of distinguishing official levels.
The Wei, Jin, South and Southern Dynasties (220 ~ 589) Wei, Jin and the Northern and Southern Dynasties, hierarchical clothing has changed, and national costumes are greatly blended. The crown hat has been replaced by the scarf used by literati, including corner scarf, diamond scarf, Zilun scarf, Bai Lun scarf and so on. At the beginning of Wei, Emperor Cao Yu formulated the Jiupin official position system, "with the three colors of purple and green as the difference between nine products." This system has been used along the past, until Yuanming. In addition to the use of towels in the Jin Dynasty, in addition to the use of society, men with official positions also wear small crowns, and the crown of the gauze is called the lacquer cage crown. For male officials, and shed Dou Yiyi Xin, Dan Di D, Bao Bao, Bao Xuan Yingjin, 褡 褡 � 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于Clothing has also changed its development. The dumb folds dressed in the northern nation's short clothes gradually become mainstream. The woman is dressed as "frugal". At the end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty to Qi and Liang, the dress was a skirt suit, which was primitive in the Han Dynasty. In the Jin Dynasty, it had the characteristics of short tops and wide lower skirts. The feet wearing a head and a high -toothed performance (a kind of lacquer painting wooden cricket) is popular. On the other hand, minority costumes were affected by the etiquette of the Han Dynasty, and they wore Han clothing. After the Xianbei Northern Wei Dynasty moved to Luoyang in the eighteenth year of Taihe (494), Emperor Wei Xiaowen promoted the Huahua policy, changed the Tuoba surname, and led "the ministers to serve the Han and Wei clothes." It turned out that the Xianbei people wore a small sleeve clothes. This time, the old customs were called "Xiaowen's restructuring" in history, which enabled the old system of the crown service since the Qin and Han dynasties, and promoted the development of Chinese clothing culture.
The Sui and Tang Dity (581-907) in the Sui and Tang dynasties, China was unified from division, stable from war, economic and cultural prosperity. Essence Caijin is a silk with all kinds of patterns, which are often used as half -arm and collar edge clothing. In the special palace brocade, the pattern has the shape of the puppets, fighting sheep, Xiangfeng, and swimming scales, and Zhang Cai is gorgeous. Embroidery, five -color embroidery and gold and silver wire embroidery. Printing and dyeing patterns, dyeing and monochrome dye. During the Sui and Tang dynasties, men's crown clothes were characterized by the upper -level figures wearing robes. Officials wearing crickets and people with short shirts. Until the fifth generation, the change was not much. The officials of the emperor and Baiguan use the color to distinguish the level, and use the pattern to represent the official level. The Sui and Tang women's clothing is full of fashion. It often develops from the competitive court women's clothing to the people. It is imitated and often influenced by the northwestern nation. The most popular women in the Sui and Tang dynasties were skirts, that is, short skirts, and skirts with high -ribbon -tie high lines, almost under the armpits. Sui and Tang dynasties are good -looking. The "half -arms" spread from the court have plackets, hoods, lapels or collar styles. Due to the wide neckline, the chest was exposed when wearing it. Half -arms are enduring, and men are also wearing. At that time, a gangster was also made of a gauze, which was made of silver or gold and silver powder. One end was fixed on the chest strap of the half -arm, and then put on the shawl and spin around the arm. There are many hair accessories in the Tang Dynasty, and each has its own name. Women's shoes are generally made of flower shoes, which are mostly made of splendid fabrics, colorful crickets, and leather. The Tang people are good at integrating the northwestern ethnic minorities and foreign cultures such as Tianzhu and Persia. Tang Zhenguan is very popular in the opening of the Yuan Dynasty.
The Song, Liao Xia Jinyuan Clothing (947 ~ 1368) The Song Dynasty basically retained the style of Han nationality. Essence All ethnic groups of clothing reappear and integrate. The clothing of the Song Dynasty has the three styles such as official uniforms, casual clothes, and old clothes. The official service fabrics in the Song Dynasty were mainly Luo. The government was given a different color of the brocade robes of the expensive minister every year due to the old system of the fifth generation. The official service has followed the Tang system, served more than three grades, and more than five grades. The official service type is about the big sleeve robe of the late Tang Dynasty, but the first service (crown hat, etc.) is already a flat -winged black hak. The official uniforms of the Song Dynasty also followed the Pei fish system in the Tang Dynasty. Officials who were qualified to wear purple and crimson uniforms must wear "fish bags" on the waist. Official product. "Fangxinqu collar" is also a characteristic of the service, that is, the ornaments below the round -ups. The daily uniforms outside the Song Dynasty officials and uniforms were mainly soft wings with small sleeve round neck shirts and hats. They were still Tang style, but under their feet, they changed their shoes that were more convenient for daily living. The representative costumes of the old man in the Song Dynasty were wide -sleeved robes and Dongpo towels with large sleeves. The robe uses dark material edges to save ancient style. Dongpo towels are square tissue. It is said that it is created by Su Dongpo, a great writer, and is actually the revival of ancient scarfs. There are also various people in the Song Dynasty folk service. Men are popular, scarf, and women are popular with corolla and hijacch. Women's hair style and corolla are the focus of pursuit of the United States at that time, and the most changes in the Song Dynasty costumes. The women of women in the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties have become increasingly dangerous. The regime established by Liaoning, Xixia, and Jin for the ancient Chinese Khitan, Party, and Women's True people, their clothing reflects the development trajectory of national traditions in the long -term cultural exchanges with the Han people. The party's women women have more lapels, and the collar is exquisitely embroidered. The Khitan and Women's True family generally wear narrow -sleeved round necks with knee coats, with long boots under the feet. The fishing pier used to wear it to the Mainland was widely popular. Considering the reality of coexistence with the Han people, the Liao and Jin regime has set up a "southern official" system. The Liao Dynasty distinguished the official products with the landscape of the landscape of the landscape of the silk official service, which affected the level logo of the official uniform of the Ming and Qing dynasties. Sesame Luo. The Khitan and Jurchen men are also adopted for the Han people because they are easy to act. In the first year of the Yuan Dynasty (1314), the ancient and modern Mongolian and Chinese clothing system was discrepaded, and the color of the upper and lower officials and civil clothes were uniformly stipulated. The Han official clothes are still most of the Tang -style round neck clothes and pupae; Mongolian officials wear collar clothes and wearing a square corrugated hat; the middle and lower layers are easy to ride immediately. The robe, width, folded, braid lines around the waist), wearing a hat. The textiles of the Yuan Dynasty include Naishiya Jinjin, Hun Jinzi, Golden Duanzi, Dou Luojin, Tree Emperor Luo, Daji, Xiaoyu, South Silk, North Silk, Mujin cloth, Fanjin cloth ... In the Yuan Dynasty, more than 10 DPRK meetings were held each year. At that time, thousands of officials wore the same color, style, and decorated with the high -end dresses of Natashiya Golden Jewelry. This kind of clothing was used as a bad service in the Ming Dynasty.
The Ming Dynasty clothing (1368 ～ 1911) Ming Dynasty used the traditional Chinese costume as the main body, and the Qing Dynasty used Manchu clothing as the big current. The clothing of the upper and lower society in both generations has obvious levels. The official uniform of the upper society is a symbol of power, which has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song dynasties, the dragon robe and yellow have been dedicated to the royal family. Bai Guan's uniforms have been precious since the Northern and Southern Dynasties. Because of the emperor's surname Zhu, the Ming dynasty used Zhu to be positive, and because of the Analects of Confucius, "the evil purple sends Zhu also", the purple self -official service was abolished. The most distinctive thing is to use "Buzi" to represent the grade. Buzi is a piece of silk for about 40 to 50 cm. Different patterns are woven and embroidered, and then sewn it to the official uniforms, and each back of the chest. Civilian supplements use birds, martial arts officials are used for beasts, each of which is divided into nine. The round -necked robe that is usually worn is distinguished from the length of the clothes and the size of the sleeves. The main service of officials in the Ming Dynasty was slightly different from the Song and Yuan dynasties. The emperor wore a black yarn and folded the scarf, and the hat wing raised from the back. Officials wear winged lacquer gauze, and often wear black gauze hats. The official wife and mother who were sealed in the sea also had red -sleeved dresses and all kinds of Xia Pie with different grades. In addition, the upper women have used high heels, and there are high inside and high -bottoms. The clothing of ordinary people in the Ming Dynasty, long, or short, or shirts, or skirts, basically inherited the old tradition, and the variety was very rich. In terms of clothing, civilian wives and daughters can only be dressed in purple, green, pink, etc., so as not to mix with official uniforms; the labor public only use brown. In addition to the old people's hat, in addition to the old days since the Tang and Song dynasties, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two types to present two types to the country, and the scholars are universal. One is a square bucket -shaped black paint hat, which is called the four -square towel; the other is a hemisphere -shaped hat that is synthesized by six pieces. The latter stays, commonly known as the melon skown, is made of black velvet, satin, etc. During the Qing dynasty, he implemented shaving and easy clothes with violence, and unified men's clothing according to Manchu customs. In the ninth year of Shunzhi (1652), the "Regulations on Serving the Shoulder" were presented, and since then, the crown clothes of the strong Han nationality were abolished. The men in the Ming Dynasty were all stood up, wearing loose clothes, wearing long socks, light -faced shoes; when they were in the Qing Dynasty, they had hair and braids, and behind the braids, wearing thin horseshoe sleeves, socks, and deep boots. However, the officials and people's clothing is clear according to the law. The main varieties of official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty were robes. The horse gown is named after the robe, which is named because it originated from a horse ride short clothes. It is characterized by the slit of the front and rear, the side of the chest nail, the stone, the green buddy side (the prince and the king of the county). Bird's bird pattern and order order is similar to the Ming Dynasty. The official caps of the Qing Dynasty were definitely different from the former dynasty. The military and political personnel above the sergeants and the martial arts and political personnel were wearing a small weal hat that was small and small. "Dingzi", dragging a peacock behind the hat. The 的 is called the flower, and the high -level cricket has "eyes" (round spots on feathers), and there are monocular, double eyes, and three eyes. The eyes are expensive. Only princes or outstanding ministers are rewarded. The emperor sometimes appreciated the yellow horse gown to show special favor. As far as the influence, other colors of horse gowns gradually became popular among officials and gentry, becoming a general dress. Fourth, officials above the five grades also also hung beads, made of various valuable jewelry and fragrant wood, forming another characteristic of the official uniforms of the Qing Dynasty. The progress of silk spinning embroidery and various handmade majors has created conditions for the richness of the Qing Dynasty clothing varieties. Women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty, the development of the Han and Manchus was different. Han women also retained the Ming Dynasty style during the Kangxi and Yongzheng period, Shixing small sleeves and long skirts; after Qianlong, the clothes gradually became fat, the cuffs were wide, and the cloud shoulders were renovated. Go to the skirt and pants, inlays lace and rolling teeth on the clothes, most of the preciousness of the one is spent on it. The Manchu woman wore the "flag suit", combing flags (commonly known as two heads), and wearing "flower pot bottom" flag shoes. As for the so -called cheongsam circulating in later generations, it has long been mainly used in the court and the royal family. In the late Qing Dynasty, cheongsam was also imitated by the ladies in the Han nationality.
D modern clothing (since 1912) The Revolution of 1911 has ended the feudal monarchy for more than 2000 years, and the clothing of the Chinese nation has entered a new era. Prior to this, the improvementist Kang Youwei was in the early years of Xu Tingfang in the early years of Xu Tingfang in the early years of Xu Tingfang. With the strengthening of Chinese and foreign exchanges, colorful clothing finally broke down the clothing level system. Traditional robes, shirts, jackets, pants, skirts are increasingly affected by Western clothing, and are replaced by many new varieties and new styles. ① Men's clothing: In the early years of the Republic of China, there was a situation where a suit leather leather and robes were parallel. Wearing a hood in Chinese and suit is considered to be the most solemn clothing. Around the 1920s, Zhongshan costumes gradually became popular in cities. The vast number of rural areas have been using traditional jumpsuits, wearing felt hats or buckets, and their own cloth shoes. ② Women's clothing: The 1911 Revolution brought diversity. In addition to a jacket, wearing more skirts. Since the 1920s, women have loved cheongsam, and cheongsam has gradually become fashion. After the establishment of the People's Republic of China, clothing advocates simple and practical. In the 1950s and 1970s, Zhongshan was gradually becoming a man's main clothing. In addition, he had a popular clothing and people's clothing; women's clothing was influenced by the Soviet Union, and the dress was popular in the city. But in rural areas, jackets have always been the traditional costume of most farmers. After 1978, China implemented a reform and opening up policy, reflecting the spirit of the times, and the costumes of the Chinese nation's characteristics have sprung up and have a new look.
This is made of black velvet and satin. In addition to silver or copper wire, it is decorated with a little green or wearing beads. "Generally, women are mostly made of copper or iron wire into" hair support ". The mules include phoenix, Manchu, half -钿.
The dome is wide; entangle the hair around two rays of hair, and then insert it with flats, mules, flowers and other accessories.
簪 is the indispensable jewelry of the Manchu women to comb its various buns.
usually Manchu women like to decorate gold, silver, pearl jade, agate, coral and other precious materials on the hair buns. Although there are many types of crickets, although there are many types of mules, although there are many types of mules, they must be determined according to the conditions and identities of each person when choosing. The best material for decorative is Dongzhu. Two hundred years later, it was gradually replaced by Nanzhu, which is the Pearl of Hepu.
The is comparable to pearls. Silver or copper -made, there are also gem emeralds, coral ivory, etc., which are made into various rings jewelry and decorated on the buns. If it is compared with the same level, it will look much simpler. R n After entering the customs, due to the influence of the Han women's headdress, the Manchu women, especially the palace ladies, are more particular. For example During the sixty longevity, in the Gongjin's life ceremony, the names of only various mules were dazzling, such as the wishfulness, Mei Ying's victory, Jingfu Chang Mianzhang, Ri Yongqin Shu, Sun and Moon Shengheng Ending Evergrande Wanshouyu, Renfeng Pu Fan, Wannian Ji Qingzhang, Fanghuji Ruibian Hua (鬓 鬓), Yaochi Qingfeng Chianhua, Xichi Xianshouzhu, Wannian Song Zhu, Tianbao Yiyi, Qingyun embrace blessings芳, Green Snow with Fang Fang ... and so on. These buns are undoubtedly the top grades of excellence in terms of materials and production.
Looking at, there are two types of 两.
One is practical 簪, which is mostly used for fixing buns and head shapes. The other type is decorative 簪, and more precious materials are selected. The exquisite buns are specially used in the obvious position after combing the buns.
The actual paintings in the Forbidden City are depicted by the concubine. Some of them put their crickets in the middle of the buns, and some were placed on the roots of the buns. The concubines were covered with jewelry, but the buns were among them. Jewelry is the texture, and the production process is also very particular. Often, it is the most precious of using a whole piece of jadeite, coral crystal or ivory to make a pupae and needle.
The white jade buns are made of pure sheep fat and white jade. The 梃 is the last stroke of the birthday character. The emerald plate intestines and coral bats carved with the same method are all good works in the decoration. In addition, there are golden blessings in front of the eyes, the magpie, and the five bats to hold the Shouzhu, etc., and have attracted much attention to the sculpture and exquisiteness. The head and the needle are combined with the two parts, but it still has its richness and luxury.
As the concubine style of the Qing Dynasty gradually widened and enlarged, the shape of the decoration gradually developed towards two extremes. The old crow, etc.; The other is the larger and larger decoration, which is not only suitable for Manchu women to comb the characteristics of two large heads covered with large heads, but also gradually evolved into large jewelry such as head flowers and flat squares.
The head 作为 is worn on the head as jewelry, which not only plays the role of beautiful jewelry buns.
It's decoration left by the concubine of the Qing Dynasty, there are many forms, and the wide style is not enough for the previous generations. A deformed bead "Boy Newspaper Ping An", which was exhibited in the Treasure Museum, is a rare treasure.
This head is a large malformation pearl, about five centimeters long, and it looks like a naughty boy is dancing. On the left side of the malformed beads, a treasure bottle carved with a sapphire, and a few thin red coral branches set off a "An" word.
The golden handle behind the urchin, connecting it with the treasure bottle, and exposing the golden Ganoderma lucidum on the right side of the naughty boy. It is a boy from the decoration of the urchin. The entire Ruyi is called together. It is "the boy reports peace", or "the boy is good and safe".
The moral ethics of the feudal society pays attention to the "three outlines and five constants", that is, the monarch is the minister, the husband is the wife, and the father is the son. Of course, the emperor's wife and concubine use the emperor as the outline, to be a child of the royal family, and "more blessings and more children and grandchildren", so that the royal blood veins are strong. Saying. However, the facts are not so good. The 35 sons of Emperor Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty. There were twenty -four people who grew up. The two emperors of Tongzhi and Guangxu in the late Qing Dynasty, the queen, and concubine, but had no children, which caused her mother Cixi to listen to politics twice, and ruled China for half a century.
This also loves beautiful costumes for a lifetime, especially the peony and butterfly puppets who like ruby, red coral, emerald and other textures.
Eleven years in Xianfeng, the summer villa that died of virtue. Cixi became a widow at the age of 27. According to the customs of the Manchu, his wife should wear filial piety for her husband and release for 27 months. The sister -in -law on the head should wear osteogenesis or light silver. Cixi's ordered office to make a batch of silver, gray white jade, agarwood and other heads. In February of the first year of Tongzhi, these plain jewelry was sent to Cixi. Cixi barely inserted every day, very reluctant. At the expiration of the interpretation period, all these jewelry were hit into the cold palace. Cixi put on exquisite and luxurious gorgeous heads until the old age did not change.
The emperor, queen, queen queen, concubine, concubine, concubine, and civil servants' five grades, and military officials can wear dictators and beads. However, according to different levels, the texture of Chaozhu is also different. Only the emperor, the queen, and the queen queen can wear Dongzhu Chaozhu.
The Dongzhu Chaozhu is composed of 108 Dongzhu, and every 27 Dongzhu uses 4 red coral beads to separate the upper, lower, left, and right four parts. It is called "Buddha head" in the shape of a gourd. When wearing Chaozhu, the head of the Buddha was hanging behind, and a group of jade jewelry was connected to the yellow cricket, which was called "back cloud". The red coral beads hanging towards the beads are decorated with a string and two bunch of turquoise beads, which are called "commemorative".
The composition of Chaozhu has a deep meaning. 108 Dongzhu represents twelve months a year. Four red coral beads symbolize the four seasons of spring, summer, autumn, and winter. Matsushite commemorates the upper, middle and lower stages of the middle, middle, and lower in the middle of January. When the emperor wore a dynasty, he wore a plate of Dongzhu, and he was holding two plates of red coral beads on both shoulders to show his identity.
Thenong service is supplemented.
The ordinary flag women and Han women in the early Qing Dynasty imitated the Manchu lady hair accessories. They were still high. Changping, two buns are about one foot wide, commonly known as "fork head" (also known as "two heads" and "or" head "). When making fork head, a strand of strands of hair on the back of the head and fixing the lower ends to be fixed into the lower end. Two sharp corners form the tile -tailed name "Swallowtail". The Qingwu Shizan "Gong Words" described this type of hair style "Two of the Panpan Clouds, and the pearl light shadow. The city is more than higher than the ruler, and the fork is divided into a low tail. "These palace words depict the unique hair style of Manchu women.
The Tang dynasty service:
. His head combed the unique hairstyle of the Tang Dynasty "high wall" big flowers, decorated with flowers, steps shake, moth eyebrows, wearing open -colored plackets, big sleeve clothes, wearing long skirts, wearing big stubes, soft bands, soft bands, soft bands, soft bands, soft bands, soft bands, soft bands. Small knots and high -end. In the Tang Dynasty, this costume was used as a foreign clothing, and it was popular in the aristocratic ladies.
. At the beginning, wearing a banquet, and then wearing it as a regular service. Platform, wearing long skirts, skirt waist and chest, narrow up and width, ending soft bands and small bands, belonging to the banquet interior, but the head comb is high and flower, so the dress can also be used as a common dress. R n The Ming Dynasty clothing can be divided into python, 帔, leaning, folds, clothing. Only emperors or officials are qualified to wear it, because the python is embroidered on the clothes. The python is a four -claw dragon shaped like a dragon. In the drama, the python robe is the official uniform of the emperor's general and the concubine. There are men and women. The male python robe mainly uses four -claw dragon as the pattern, and the female python robe is designed with dragons or phoenixes.
The majestic and solemn feeling, its gorgeous pattern has both a symbol of noble and distinguished, but also with rhythm, good at revealing and expressing actors' emotions, making the performance more fulfilling and rich. DPRK, the big collar is a major feature of its placket, so it is also called a pair of robes. In addition, it splits left and right, with water sleeves, which is a luxurious and unrestrained casual costume. , The gentleman's usual service, there are men, women's uniqueness, color dividends, blue, yellow, rhinum, purple, pink, light, etc., red is the representative color of newlyweds or festives.
depends on Also known as Jiayi, it originated from the official Mianjia clothes of the generals of the Qing Dynasty, and later evolved into the costume of the generals in traditional opera, usually tightening the round neck sleeves. , Soft reasons do not insert flags. Relying on the same evolution as the python robe, although the improvement is not as mighty as traditional, it is lightweight and is particularly suitable for highly difficult martial arts action.
In the era of changing the biggest, the Qing Dynasty was an era of integration of Manchu and Han culture, especially for clothing culture. After entering China, the non -Han dynasty with the most traditional costumes was retained. The political theory of Jihan in the clothes crown system does not have to be in the form of appearance, so that the country can pass on the country for a long time. The Qianlong dynasty formulated a detailed crown service system and explained that the descendants can also "keep forever."
The clothing and horse gowns of the clothes of the Qing Dynasty, the costumes that wealthy people only worn, later, it became generally the country in the country. , Red inside. The cheongsam worn by the Manchu woman was wide and wide in the early days, and later became a waist, and a "shoulder" (vest) was added outside the cheongsam. Their shoes are also very special, and they are a flower pot -style high -bottomed shoes.
Flying in the body, fluttering, Ling Bo stepped, Luo socks were dusty. The impermanence of the motion, the Qi Qi is the lower skirt, and Zi Qi is the upper.
In the Tang Dynasty, the pomegranate skirt was a style of clothing that young women favored. This skirt is like a pomegranate red, and does not dye other colors, often making the woman wearing it pretty and moving. In the "May of May", the Tang Renchu said: "The eyebrows of the eyebrows are grasomy, and the red skirt is jealous of pomegranate flowers." Wei Zhuang also sang: "Mo hate red skirts, suspect white houses low" ("Gift "Ji Ren"). In "Pipa", Bai Juyi once described the woman who played the pipa's woman's colorful art: "Qu Shi Zeng taught good to serve, makeup is jealous of Qiu Niang ... "Bloody skirt" is a pomegranate skirt.
The long time of pomegranate skirts has been circulating for a long time. Tang Yin in the Ming Dynasty wrote in the poem "Mei Fei Snock": "Plum Fragrance is full of pomegranate skirts." Although it was written in the Tang Dynasty, it can be seen that in real life at the time, this style of skirts were still cherished by young women.
Because of the long -lasting pomegranate skirt, it is said that men are conquered by beauty and call it "to worship under the pomegranate skirt" and still use it vividly.
women in the Tang Dynasty fell in love with skirts. In addition to the pomegranate skirt, there are many unique styles. At the beginning, the skirt was narrow and thin, and the wearer lifted the skirt very much, and even to the breast milk. Therefore, there was a sentence of "Slow Bouncing Skirt" in Tang poetry. By the Tang Dynasty, the skirt was exquisitely gorgeous, and some were expensive. The main styles were skirts, 100 bird skirts, flower cage skirts, etc. Skirts made of materials made of two or more colors of materials separated and arranged. Each interval is called one "break", including "six broken", "seven broken" and "twelve breaks". "The color is red, green, yellow, yellow, yellow and white. Hundred bird skirts, twisted into wiring skirts with a variety of birds with a variety of birds. Because of the sophisticated workmanship, the three -dimensional sense is strong. It "see all the birds of the other" ("New Tang Book").
The flower cage skirt is made of light, thin, thin, and translucent "single silk Luo" woven embroidery, and embroidered flowers and birds with various colors of silk threads. Bird skirts and flower cage skirts are all dresses worn outside the general skirt. In addition, there are Baidie skirts, drawing skirts (direct painting on the skirt).
The history of Chinese clothing has a long history. From primitive society, Shang and Zhou, Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods, Qin and Han dynasties, Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern Dynasties, Sui and Tang dynasties, Song, Liao, Xia, Yuan Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, to modern times, they are noticeable for the world with distinctive characteristics. The primitive society costume (before the 21st century BC) "Lu's Spring and Autumn", "Shimen" and the later "Huainanzi" written by people during the Warring States Period mentioned that Huangdi, Hu Cao or Bo Yu created clothes. Investigating from unearthed cultural relics, the source of the history of clothing can be traced back to the late period of the old stone in the original society. At the site of the top cave of Beijing's Zhoukou (about 19,000 years ago), one bone needle and 141 drilling stones, bones, shellfish, and dental decoration were found. It was confirmed that the natural materials such as beast skin were used to sew simple clothes. The history of Chinese clothing culture has begun. About 10,000 years ago, I have entered the Neolithic era. Textile technology inventions, clothing materials have since been artificially weaving cloth, clothing forms have changed, and their functions have been improved. Cloak -style clothing such as Guanyou and single clothes has become a typical dress, and the accessories are becoming increasingly complicated, and it has a significant impact on the formation of the clothing system. After the emergence of textiles, Guan's clothing has been developed into a styling service. It is commonly used in a considerable long period of time, a very vast area and a large number of ethnic groups. type. In addition to the general costumes in the Neolithic era, it also found that there are crowns, boots, headwear, and adoption from some pottery relics. Shang and Zhou Dai (about 16th century to 771 BC) from the Shang Dynasty to the Western Zhou Dynasty. It is a period of distinguishing the grade top clothes and the crown service system and the gradual establishment of the service rules system. The clothes materials of the Shang Dynasty are skin, leather, silk, and hemp. Due to the progress of textile technology, silk linen has an important position. The businessmen have been able to weave the extremely thin silk, the brocade of the flowers, the brocade of the flower, and the tunnels. The clothes are thick and heavy.
The Western Zhou Dynasty, the hierarchical system was gradually established. According to the literature records and unearthed cultural relics analysis, the Chinese crown service system was initially established during the summer and commercial period, and it has been completely improved by the Zhou Dynasty. The royal family is honored and majestic. On different etiquette occasions, the top crowns must be crowned in an orderly manner, and they must also adopt different forms, colors and patterns. The most famous is the twelve chapters contained in "Shangshu? Yi Yi": "Sun, Moon, Star, Mountain, Dragon, Chinese Cordystone, Zongyi, Algae, Fire, Pink Rice, Cycling, and Embroidery, with colorful color, colorful color Zhang Shi is in five colors. "The twelve chapters have become a system of clothing under the top of the emperors of all ages. From the perspective of humanoid cultural relics unearthed in the Zhou Dynasty, although the decoration of clothing is different, the clothes and clothes have been clear, laying the basic form of Chinese clothing.
The Spring and Autumn and Warring States Period Apparel (770 ~ 221 BC) The great progress of the weaving and embroidery technology during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period has made the clothing materials more refined and the variety of names have been seen. Huajin in Xiangyi, Henan, Bing, Qi, Qi, and Wenxiu in Qilu, Shandong, popular throughout the country. The spread of crafts stood out with diverse and exquisite clothes. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, not only did the prince himself wear a Chinese suit, but also the courtiers who were also decorated with pearls, waist Jin Peiyu, and the crown of Qiu Qiu, all seemed to be valuable. The ancients Pei Yu, respectful and inferiority, and gave a symbol of personality. As far as the influence, the upper -level people must wear a few or beautiful carved jade in the group regardless of men and women. The sword was a new weapon at the time. The nobles used self -defense to show bravery and martial arts, and they must wear a sword inlaid with gold. Various hooks are popular in the waist leather belt, and they are fighting for each other. The hat of men and women is even more eye -catching. It uses thin gauze as thin as cicada wings and valuable gold bead jade; some shapes are like covering the cup. Shoes are made of small deer skin, or made of silk and fine grass; in winter, the leather clothes are very heavy in white fox fur, which is worth a thousand dollars. Women love to make a fur in the cuffs, and there is a semi -finger -style thin -quality splendid glove. In the clothes of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the wide and small society of the upper people and the narrowness of the lower society were very different. Deep clothing has the meaning of hiding the body. It is a casual dress of the scholars at home, and a dress of the people and the people. The deep jacket combined the two independent tops and lower clothes, but kept one divided into two boundaries. The most intelligent design is that a rectangular fabric is embedded at the junction of the lower waist seams and the sleeve joints. Function. According to records, there are 4 different names in deep clothes: deep clothes, long clothes, Ma Yi, and midfine. From the perspective of unearthed wide things, clothes in the Spring and Autumn Period are more clothing and widely used, and some can be regarded as a variant of deep clothes. In 307 BC, King Zhao Wuling issued an order to serve and promoted the hut ride. Hu Fu refers to the costumes of the "Hu people" at that time, which is largely different from the clothing in the Central Plains. It is characterized by the long knees, the waist, the Guo Luo belt, the hook and the boots to facilitate riding and shooting activities. The style of clothes during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period is unprecedentedly rich and diverse, which is not only manifested in deep clothes and Hu clothes. The musician has a hood, the dancers have long and several feet sleeves. Some people often wear horn or tail crown, wearing small sleeves long skirts and oblique arm folds. These are related to the multi -collection social life.
Qin and Han clothing (AD 221 ~ 220 AD). During this period, the clothes were richer than the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, and the deep clothing also developed new development. Especially in the Han Dynasty, with the establishment of the service system, the difference between the level of clothing is also stricter. Qin and Han clothing fabrics are still heavy. Most of the embroidery patterns are mountains or vines or vines, the brocade has various complex geometric diamond patterns, and the width of the text. In the three years of the Jianyuan of the Western Han Dynasty (138 BC) and the four years of Yuan Hui (119 BC), Zhang Jian worshiped the Western Regions twice and opened up land channels between China and Western countries. Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang dynasties have not been interrupted so far, and they are called "Silk Road" in history. As a result, Chinese clothing culture passed to the world. Since Qin and Han, deep clothes have developed and changed. From the perspective of the upper levels of the Eastern Han Dynasty, the tailored robes are transferred to the institutionalization. There is no difference between the Qin Dynasty's clothing system and the Warring States Period. The Western Han Dynasty men's and women's clothing still follow the form of deep clothes. Regardless of the single and cotton, most of them are integrated with jackets and lower clothes, and they are still unpopular or scattered; the coats are in the coats and underwear. With tight pants, keep the "dress big skirt" style. Foot a mansion. Bid belt. The Qin Dynasty served, and the color was still dark. There is a public service system in the Han Dynasty. The history books include more than 20 kinds of dresses, courts, and regular clothes of emperors and ministers. The difference in grade in clothing has been very obvious. The main manifestations are: ① on the basis of the old system, the crown service has developed into a basic logo of distinguishing levels; ② The Pei system is established as a sign of distinguishing official levels.
The Wei, Jin, South and Southern Dynasties (220 ~ 589) Wei, Jin and the Northern and Southern Dynasties, hierarchical clothing has changed, and national costumes are greatly blended. The crown hat has been replaced by the scarf used by literati, including corner scarf, diamond scarf, Zilun scarf, Bai Lun scarf and so on. At the beginning of Wei, Emperor Cao Yu formulated the Jiupin official position system, "with the three colors of purple and green as the difference between nine products." This system has been used along the past, until Yuanming. In addition to the use of towels in the Jin Dynasty, in addition to the use of society, men with official positions also wear small crowns, and the crown of the gauze is called the lacquer cage crown. For male officials, and shed Dou Yiyi Xin, Dan Di D, Bao Bao, Bao Xuan Yingjin, 褡 褡 � 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于 于Clothing has also changed its development. The dumb folds dressed in the northern nation's short clothes gradually become mainstream. The woman is dressed as "frugal". At the end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty to Qi and Liang, the dress was a skirt suit, which was primitive in the Han Dynasty. In the Jin Dynasty, it had the characteristics of short tops and wide lower skirts. The feet wearing a head and a high -toothed performance (a kind of lacquer painting wooden cricket) is popular. On the other hand, minority costumes were affected by the etiquette of the Han Dynasty, and they wore Han clothing. After the Xianbei Northern Wei Dynasty moved to Luoyang in the eighteenth year of Taihe (494), Emperor Wei Xiaowen promoted the Huahua policy, changed the Tuoba surname, and led "the ministers to serve the Han and Wei clothes." It turned out that the Xianbei people wore a small sleeve clothes. This time, the old customs were called "Xiaowen's restructuring" in history, which enabled the old system of the crown service since the Qin and Han dynasties, and promoted the development of Chinese clothing culture.
The Sui and Tang Dity (581-907) in the Sui and Tang dynasties, China was unified from division, stable from war, economic and cultural prosperity. Essence Caijin is a silk with all kinds of patterns, which are often used as half -arm and collar edge clothing. In the special palace brocade, the pattern has the shape of the puppets, fighting sheep, Xiangfeng, and swimming scales, and Zhang Cai is gorgeous. Embroidery, five -color embroidery and gold and silver wire embroidery. Printing and dyeing patterns, dyeing and monochrome dye. During the Sui and Tang dynasties, men's crown clothes were characterized by the upper -level figures wearing robes. Officials wearing crickets and people with short shirts. Until the fifth generation, the change was not much. The officials of the emperor and Baiguan use the color to distinguish the level, and use the pattern to represent the official level. The Sui and Tang women's clothing is full of fashion. It often develops from the competitive court women's clothing to the people. It is imitated and often influenced by the northwestern nation. The most popular women in the Sui and Tang dynasties were skirts, that is, short skirts, and skirts with high -ribbon -tie high lines, almost under the armpits. Sui and Tang dynasties are good -looking. The "half -arms" spread from the court have plackets, hoods, lapels or collar styles. Due to the wide neckline, the chest was exposed when wearing it. Half -arms are enduring, and men are also wearing. At that time, a gangster was also made of a gauze, which was made of silver or gold and silver powder. One end was fixed on the chest strap of the half -arm, and then put on the shawl and spin around the arm. There are many hair accessories in the Tang Dynasty, and each has its own name. Women's shoes are generally made of flower shoes, which are mostly made of splendid fabrics, colorful crickets, and leather. The Tang people are good at integrating the northwestern ethnic minorities and foreign cultures such as Tianzhu and Persia. Tang Zhenguan is very popular in the opening of the Yuan Dynasty.
The Song, Liao Xia Jinyuan Clothing (947 ~ 1368) The Song Dynasty basically retained the style of Han nationality. Essence All ethnic groups of clothing reappear and integrate. The clothing of the Song Dynasty has the three styles such as official uniforms, casual clothes, and old clothes. The official service fabrics in the Song Dynasty were mainly Luo. The government was given a different color of the brocade robes of the expensive minister every year due to the old system of the fifth generation. The official service has followed the Tang system, served more than three grades, and more than five grades. The official service type is about the big sleeve robe of the late Tang Dynasty, but the first service (crown hat, etc.) is already a flat -winged black hak. The official uniforms of the Song Dynasty also followed the Pei fish system in the Tang Dynasty. Officials who were qualified to wear purple and crimson uniforms must wear "fish bags" on the waist. Official product. "Fangxinqu collar" is also a characteristic of the service, that is, the ornaments below the round -ups. The daily uniforms outside the Song Dynasty officials and uniforms were mainly soft wings with small sleeve round neck shirts and hats. They were still Tang style, but under their feet, they changed their shoes that were more convenient for daily living. The representative costumes of the old man in the Song Dynasty were wide -sleeved robes and Dongpo towels with large sleeves. The robe uses dark material edges to save ancient style. Dongpo towels are square tissue. It is said that it is created by Su Dongpo, a great writer, and is actually the revival of ancient scarfs. There are also various people in the Song Dynasty folk service. Men are popular, scarf, and women are popular with corolla and hijacch. Women's hair style and corolla are the focus of pursuit of the United States at that time, and the most changes in the Song Dynasty costumes. The women of women in the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties have become increasingly dangerous. The regime established by Liaoning, Xixia, and Jin for the ancient Chinese Khitan, Party, and Women's True people, their clothing reflects the development trajectory of national traditions in the long -term cultural exchanges with the Han people. The party's women women have more lapels, and the collar is exquisitely embroidered. The Khitan and Women's True family generally wear narrow -sleeved round necks with knee coats, with long boots under the feet. The fishing pier used to wear it to the Mainland was widely popular. Considering the reality of coexistence with the Han people, the Liao and Jin regime has set up a "southern official" system. The Liao Dynasty distinguished the official products with the landscape of the landscape of the landscape of the silk official service, which affected the level logo of the official uniform of the Ming and Qing dynasties. Sesame Luo. The Khitan and Jurchen men are also adopted for the Han people because they are easy to act. In the first year of the Yuan Dynasty (1314), the ancient and modern Mongolian and Chinese clothing system was discrepaded, and the color of the upper and lower officials and civil clothes were uniformly stipulated. The Han official clothes are still most of the Tang -style round neck clothes and pupae; Mongolian officials wear collar clothes and wearing a square corrugated hat; the middle and lower layers are easy to ride immediately. The robe, width, folded, braid lines around the waist), wearing a hat. The textiles of the Yuan Dynasty include Naishiya Jinjin, Hun Jinzi, Golden Duanzi, Dou Luojin, Tree Emperor Luo, Daji, Xiaoyu, South Silk, North Silk, Mujin cloth, Fanjin cloth ... In the Yuan Dynasty, more than 10 DPRK meetings were held each year. At that time, thousands of officials wore the same color, style, and decorated with the high -end dresses of Natashiya Golden Jewelry. This kind of clothing was used as a bad service in the Ming Dynasty.
The Ming Dynasty clothing (1368 ～ 1911) Ming Dynasty used the traditional Chinese costume as the main body, and the Qing Dynasty used Manchu clothing as the big current. The clothing of the upper and lower society in both generations has obvious levels. The official uniform of the upper society is a symbol of power, which has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song dynasties, the dragon robe and yellow have been dedicated to the royal family. Bai Guan's uniforms have been precious since the Northern and Southern Dynasties. Because of the emperor's surname Zhu, the Ming dynasty used Zhu to be positive, and because of the Analects of Confucius, "the evil purple sends Zhu also", the purple self -official service was abolished. The most distinctive thing is to use "Buzi" to represent the grade. Buzi is a piece of silk for about 40 to 50 cm. Different patterns are woven and embroidered, and then sewn it to the official uniforms, and each back of the chest. Civilian supplements use birds, martial arts officials are used for beasts, each of which is divided into nine. The round -necked robe that is usually worn is distinguished from the length of the clothes and the size of the sleeves. The main service of officials in the Ming Dynasty was slightly different from the Song and Yuan dynasties. The emperor wore a black yarn and folded the scarf, and the hat wing raised from the back. Officials wear winged lacquer gauze, and often wear black gauze hats. The official wife and mother who were sealed in the sea also had red -sleeved dresses and all kinds of Xia Pie with different grades. In addition, the upper women have used high heels, and there are high inside and high -bottoms. The clothing of ordinary people in the Ming Dynasty, long, or short, or shirts, or skirts, basically inherited the old tradition, and the variety was very rich. In terms of clothing, civilian wives and daughters can only be dressed in purple, green, pink, etc., so as not to mix with official uniforms; the labor public only use brown. In addition to the old people's hat, in addition to the old days since the Tang and Song dynasties, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two types to present two types to the country, and the scholars are universal. One is a square bucket -shaped black paint hat, which is called the four -square towel; the other is a hemisphere -shaped hat that is synthesized by six pieces. The latter stays, commonly known as the melon skown, is made of black velvet, satin, etc. During the Qing dynasty, he implemented shaving and easy clothes with violence, and unified men's clothing according to Manchu customs. In the ninth year of Shunzhi (1652), the "Regulations on Serving the Shoulder" were presented, and since then, the crown clothes of the strong Han nationality were abolished. The men in the Ming Dynasty were all stood up, wearing loose clothes, wearing long socks, light -faced shoes; when they were in the Qing Dynasty, they had hair and braids, and behind the braids, wearing thin horseshoe sleeves, socks, and deep boots. However, the officials and people's clothing is clear according to the law. The main varieties of official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty were robes. The horse gown is named after the robe, which is named because it originated from a horse ride short clothes. It is characterized by the slit of the front and rear, the side of the chest nail, the stone, the green buddy side (the prince and the king of the county). Bird's bird pattern and order order is similar to the Ming Dynasty. The official caps of the Qing Dynasty were definitely different from the former dynasty. The military and political personnel above the sergeants and the martial arts and political personnel were wearing a small weal hat that was small and small. "Dingzi", dragging a peacock behind the hat. The 的 is called the flower, and the high -level cricket has "eyes" (round spots on feathers), and there are monocular, double eyes, and three eyes. The eyes are expensive. Only princes or outstanding ministers are rewarded. The emperor sometimes appreciated the yellow horse gown to show special favor. As far as the influence, other colors of horse gowns gradually became popular among officials and gentry, becoming a general dress. Fourth, officials above the five grades also also hung beads, made of various valuable jewelry and fragrant wood, forming another characteristic of the official uniforms of the Qing Dynasty. The progress of silk spinning embroidery and various handmade majors has created conditions for the richness of the Qing Dynasty clothing varieties. Women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty, the development of the Han and Manchus was different. Han women also retained the Ming Dynasty style during the Kangxi and Yongzheng period, Shixing small sleeves and long skirts; after Qianlong, the clothes gradually became fat, the cuffs were wide, and the cloud shoulders were renovated. Go to the skirt and pants, inlays lace and rolling teeth on the clothes, most of the preciousness of the one is spent on it. The Manchu woman wore the "flag suit", combing flags (commonly known as two heads), and wearing "flower pot bottom" flag shoes. As for the so -called cheongsam circulating in later generations, it has long been mainly used in the court and the royal family. In the late Qing Dynasty, cheongsam was also imitated by the ladies in the Han nationality.
D modern clothing (since 1912) The Revolution of 1911 has ended the feudal monarchy for more than 2000 years, and the clothing of the Chinese nation has entered a new era. Prior to this, the improvementist Kang Youwei was in the early years of Xu Tingfang in the early years of Xu Tingfang in the early years of Xu Tingfang. With the strengthening of Chinese and foreign exchanges, colorful clothing finally broke down the clothing level system. Traditional robes, shirts, jackets, pants, skirts are increasingly affected by Western clothing, and are replaced by many new varieties and new styles. ① Men's clothing: In the early years of the Republic of China, there was a situation where a suit leather leather and robes were parallel. Wearing a hood in Chinese and suit is considered to be the most solemn clothing. Around the 1920s, Zhongshan costumes gradually became popular in cities. The vast number of rural areas have been using traditional jumpsuits, wearing felt hats or buckets, and their own cloth shoes. ② Women's clothing: The 1911 Revolution brought diversity. In addition to a jacket, wearing more skirts. Since the 1920s, women have loved cheongsam, and cheongsam has gradually become fashion. After the establishment of the People's Republic of China, clothing advocates simple and practical. In the 1950s and 1970s, Zhongshan was gradually becoming a man's main clothing. In addition, he had a popular clothing and people's clothing; women's clothing was influenced by the Soviet Union, and the dress was popular in the city. But in rural areas, jackets have always been the traditional costume of most farmers. After 1978, China implemented a reform and opening up policy, reflecting the spirit of the times, and the costumes of the Chinese nation's characteristics have sprung up and have a new look.
[Diàn] Zi Fengfeng, Manchu, half -钿.
This is made of black velvet and satin. In addition to silver or copper wire, it is decorated with a little green or wearing beads. "Generally, women are mostly made of copper or iron wire into" hair support ". The mules include phoenix, Manchu, half -钿.
The dome is wide; entangle the hair around two rays of hair, and then insert it with flats, mules, flowers and other accessories.
簪 is the indispensable jewelry of the Manchu women to comb its various buns.
usually Manchu women like to decorate gold, silver, pearl jade, agate, coral and other precious materials on the hair buns. Although there are many types of crickets, although there are many types of mules, although there are many types of mules, they must be determined according to the conditions and identities of each person when choosing. The best material for decorative is Dongzhu. Two hundred years later, it was gradually replaced by Nanzhu, which is the Pearl of Hepu.
The is comparable to pearls. Silver or copper -made, there are also gem emeralds, coral ivory, etc., which are made into various rings jewelry and decorated on the buns. If it is compared with the same level, it will look much simpler. R n After entering the customs, due to the influence of the Han women's headdress, the Manchu women, especially the palace ladies, are more particular. For example During the sixty longevity, in the Gongjin's life ceremony, the names of only various mules were dazzling, such as the wishfulness, Mei Ying's victory, Jingfu Chang Mianzhang, Ri Yongqin Shu, Sun and Moon Shengheng Ending Evergrande Wanshouyu, Renfeng Pu Fan, Wannian Ji Qingzhang, Fanghuji Ruibian Hua (鬓 鬓), Yaochi Qingfeng Chianhua, Xichi Xianshouzhu, Wannian Song Zhu, Tianbao Yiyi, Qingyun embrace blessings芳, Green Snow with Fang Fang ... and so on. These buns are undoubtedly the top grades of excellence in terms of materials and production.
Looking at, there are two types of 两.
One is practical 簪, which is mostly used for fixing buns and head shapes. The other type is decorative 簪, and more precious materials are selected. The exquisite buns are specially used in the obvious position after combing the buns.
The actual paintings in the Forbidden City are depicted by the concubine. Some of them put their crickets in the middle of the buns, and some were placed on the roots of the buns. The concubines were covered with jewelry, but the buns were among them. Jewelry is the texture, and the production process is also very particular. Often, it is the most precious of using a whole piece of jadeite, coral crystal or ivory to make a pupae and needle.
The white jade buns are made of pure sheep fat and white jade. The 梃 is the last stroke of the birthday character. The emerald plate intestines and coral bats carved with the same method are all good works in the decoration. In addition, there are golden blessings in front of the eyes, the magpie, and the five bats to hold the Shouzhu, etc., and have attracted much attention to the sculpture and exquisiteness. The head and the needle are combined with the two parts, but it still has its richness and luxury.
As the concubine style of the Qing Dynasty gradually widened and enlarged, the shape of the decoration gradually developed towards two extremes. The old crow, etc.; The other is the larger and larger decoration, which is not only suitable for Manchu women to comb the characteristics of two large heads covered with large heads, but also gradually evolved into large jewelry such as head flowers and flat squares.
The head 作为 is worn on the head as jewelry, which not only plays the role of beautiful jewelry buns.
It's decoration left by the concubine of the Qing Dynasty, there are many forms, and the wide style is not enough for the previous generations. A deformed bead "Boy Newspaper Ping An", which was exhibited in the Treasure Museum, is a rare treasure.
This head is a large malformation pearl, about five centimeters long, and it looks like a naughty boy is dancing. On the left side of the malformed beads, a treasure bottle carved with a sapphire, and a few thin red coral branches set off a "An" word.
The golden handle behind the urchin, connecting it with the treasure bottle, and exposing the golden Ganoderma lucidum on the right side of the naughty boy. It is a boy from the decoration of the urchin. The entire Ruyi is called together. It is "the boy reports peace", or "the boy is good and safe".
The moral ethics of the feudal society pays attention to the "three outlines and five constants", that is, the monarch is the minister, the husband is the wife, and the father is the son. Of course, the emperor's wife and concubine use the emperor as the outline, to be a child of the royal family, and "more blessings and more children and grandchildren", so that the royal blood veins are strong. Saying. However, the facts are not so good. The 35 sons of Emperor Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty. There were twenty -four people who grew up. The two emperors of Tongzhi and Guangxu in the late Qing Dynasty, the queen, and concubine, but had no children, which caused her mother Cixi to listen to politics twice, and ruled China for half a century.
This also loves beautiful costumes for a lifetime, especially the peony and butterfly puppets who like ruby, red coral, emerald and other textures.
Eleven years in Xianfeng, the summer villa that died of virtue. Cixi became a widow at the age of 27. According to the customs of the Manchu, his wife should wear filial piety for her husband and release for 27 months. The sister -in -law on the head should wear osteogenesis or light silver. Cixi's ordered office to make a batch of silver, gray white jade, agarwood and other heads. In February of the first year of Tongzhi, these plain jewelry was sent to Cixi. Cixi barely inserted every day, very reluctant. At the expiration of the interpretation period, all these jewelry were hit into the cold palace. Cixi put on exquisite and luxurious gorgeous heads until the old age did not change.
The emperor, queen, queen queen, concubine, concubine, concubine, and civil servants' five grades, and military officials can wear dictators and beads. However, according to different levels, the texture of Chaozhu is also different. Only the emperor, the queen, and the queen queen can wear Dongzhu Chaozhu.
The Dongzhu Chaozhu is composed of 108 Dongzhu, and every 27 Dongzhu uses 4 red coral beads to separate the upper, lower, left, and right four parts. It is called "Buddha head" in the shape of a gourd. When wearing Chaozhu, the head of the Buddha was hanging behind, and a group of jade jewelry was connected to the yellow cricket, which was called "back cloud". The red coral beads hanging towards the beads are decorated with a string and two bunch of turquoise beads, which are called "commemorative".
The composition of Chaozhu has a deep meaning. 108 Dongzhu represents twelve months a year. Four red coral beads symbolize the four seasons of spring, summer, autumn, and winter. Matsushite commemorates the upper, middle and lower stages of the middle, middle, and lower in the middle of January. When the emperor wore a dynasty, he wore a plate of Dongzhu, and he was holding two plates of red coral beads on both shoulders to show his identity.
Thenong service is supplemented.
The ordinary flag women and Han women in the early Qing Dynasty imitated the Manchu lady hair accessories. They were still high. Changping, two buns are about one foot wide, commonly known as "fork head" (also known as "two heads" and "or" head "). When making fork head, a strand of strands of hair on the back of the head and fixing the lower ends to be fixed into the lower end. Two sharp corners form the tile -tailed name "Swallowtail". The Qingwu Shizan "Gong Words" described this type of hair style "Two of the Panpan Clouds, and the pearl light shadow. The city is more than higher than the ruler, and the fork is divided into a low tail. "These palace words depict the unique hair style of Manchu women.
The Tang dynasty service:
. His head combed the unique hairstyle of the Tang Dynasty "high wall" big flowers, decorated with flowers, steps shake, moth eyebrows, wearing open -colored plackets, big sleeve clothes, wearing long skirts, wearing big stubes, soft bands, soft bands, soft bands, soft bands, soft bands, soft bands, soft bands. Small knots and high -end. In the Tang Dynasty, this costume was used as a foreign clothing, and it was popular in the aristocratic ladies.
. At the beginning, wearing a banquet, and then wearing it as a regular service. Platform, wearing long skirts, skirt waist and chest, narrow up and width, ending soft bands and small bands, belonging to the banquet interior, but the head comb is high and flower, so the dress can also be used as a common dress. R n
The Ming Dynasty clothing can be divided into python, 帔, leaning, folds, clothing. Only emperors or officials are qualified to wear it, because the python is embroidered on the clothes. The python is a four -claw dragon shaped like a dragon. In the drama, the python robe is the official uniform of the emperor's general and the concubine. There are men and women. The male python robe mainly uses four -claw dragon as the pattern, and the female python robe is designed with dragons or phoenixes.
The majestic and solemn feeling, its gorgeous pattern has both a symbol of noble and distinguished, but also with rhythm, good at revealing and expressing actors' emotions, making the performance more fulfilling and rich. DPRK, the big collar is a major feature of its placket, so it is also called a pair of robes. In addition, it splits left and right, with water sleeves, which is a luxurious and unrestrained casual costume. , The gentleman's usual service, there are men, women's uniqueness, color dividends, blue, yellow, rhinum, purple, pink, light, etc., red is the representative color of newlyweds or festives.
depends on Also known as Jiayi, it originated from the official Mianjia clothes of the generals of the Qing Dynasty, and later evolved into the costume of the generals in traditional opera, usually tightening the round neck sleeves. , Soft reasons do not insert flags. Relying on the same evolution as the python robe, although the improvement is not as mighty as traditional, it is lightweight and is particularly suitable for highly difficult martial arts action.
In the era of changing the biggest, the Qing Dynasty was an era of integration of Manchu and Han culture, especially for clothing culture. After entering China, the non -Han dynasty with the most traditional costumes was retained. The political theory of Jihan in the clothes crown system does not have to be in the form of appearance, so that the country can pass on the country for a long time. The Qianlong dynasty formulated a detailed crown service system and explained that the descendants can also "keep forever."
The clothing and horse gowns of the clothes of the Qing Dynasty, the costumes that wealthy people only worn, later, it became generally the country in the country. , Red inside. The cheongsam worn by the Manchu woman was wide and wide in the early days, and later became a waist, and a "shoulder" (vest) was added outside the cheongsam. Their shoes are also very special, and they are a flower pot -style high -bottomed shoes.
Flying in the body, fluttering, Ling Bo stepped, Luo socks were dusty. The impermanence of the motion, the Qi Qi is the lower skirt, and Zi Qi is the upper.
In the Tang Dynasty, the pomegranate skirt was a style of clothing that young women favored. This skirt is like a pomegranate red, and does not dye other colors, often making the woman wearing it pretty and moving. In the "May of May", the Tang Renchu said: "The eyebrows of the eyebrows are grasomy, and the red skirt is jealous of pomegranate flowers." Wei Zhuang also sang: "Mo hate red skirts, suspect white houses low" ("Gift "Ji Ren"). In "Pipa", Bai Juyi once described the woman who played the pipa's woman's colorful art: "Qu Shi Zeng taught good to serve, makeup is jealous of Qiu Niang ... "Bloody skirt" is a pomegranate skirt.
The long time of pomegranate skirts has been circulating for a long time. Tang Yin in the Ming Dynasty wrote in the poem "Mei Fei Snock": "Plum Fragrance is full of pomegranate skirts." Although it was written in the Tang Dynasty, it can be seen that in real life at the time, this style of skirts were still cherished by young women.
Because of the long -lasting pomegranate skirt, it is said that men are conquered by beauty and call it "to worship under the pomegranate skirt" and still use it vividly.
women in the Tang Dynasty fell in love with skirts. In addition to the pomegranate skirt, there are many unique styles. At the beginning, the skirt was narrow and thin, and the wearer lifted the skirt very much, and even to the breast milk. Therefore, there was a sentence of "Slow Bouncing Skirt" in Tang poetry. By the Tang Dynasty, the skirt was exquisitely gorgeous, and some were expensive. The main styles were skirts, 100 bird skirts, flower cage skirts, etc. Skirts made of materials made of two or more colors of materials separated and arranged. Each interval is called one "break", including "six broken", "seven broken" and "twelve breaks". "The color is red, green, yellow, yellow, yellow and white. Hundred bird skirts, twisted into wiring skirts with a variety of birds with a variety of birds. Because of the sophisticated workmanship, the three -dimensional sense is strong. It "see all the birds of the other" ("New Tang Book").
The flower cage skirt is made of light, thin, thin, and translucent "single silk Luo" woven embroidery, and embroidered flowers and birds with various colors of silk threads. Bird skirts and flower cage skirts are all dresses worn outside the general skirt. In addition, there are Baidie skirts, drawing skirts (direct painting on the skirt).